Modern Burgundy is a region that is somewhat smaller than that ruled by the famously independent Dukes of Burgundy, but it has historical sites that reach back to ancient times. The city of Autun is home to one of the largest Roman amphitheatres found in the western Roman Empire, along with some well-preserved gates and a Temple of Janus (the two-faced god). Theses ruins all date to the time of Augustus, and in its heyday the great amphitheatre could seat over 17,000 people. Later, the town's cathedral was the chapel of the Dukes of Burgundy well into the 12th Century. In a more recent historical footnote, the infamous and wily French foreign minister of the Revolution and Napoleonic periods, Talleyrand, achieved his first post of distinction as the Bishop of Autun before giving up the cloth and pursuing secular politics.
Burgundy's medieval legacy is equally rich. One example is the Abbaye de Fontenay, a 12th Century Cistercian monastery founded by Saint Bernard. Most of the building is authentic, having changed little since the days of Richard the Lionheart. The moated castle of Commarin is a more recently remodelled building, in the way that so many old castles were to make them more comfortable residences. However, as an estate it is a lovely home and the site itself has been under continuous fortification since the days of the Crusades. For those seeking a more authentic, warlike castle, there is the ruin of Druyes. This castle was built by Philip Augustus, the rival of Richard the Lionheart and his brother John. It is largely intact, and its high walls speak of its formidable power.
However, it is to sample the fine foods and wine that most people journey to Burgundy. The wines of Burgundy are justifiably famous, with some of the best known names in red and white wines coming from this region. Chablis, Côteaux de l’Auxerrois, Côte-de-Beaune, Hautes-Côtes and Pouilly-sur-Loire are all Burgundian wines, and many of the region's old chateaus sit at the centre of extensive vineyards. The red wine in particular has left a rich legacy, both in drinking and in cooking. An entire French style of sauces, à la bourguignonne, is derived from the local sauce made with red wine, baby onions, bacon and mushrooms.
Most people are familiar with Burgundian gastronomy even if they do not know it, because of the penetration of Dijon mustard into cupboards and supermarket shelves around the world. That same Burgundian town is home to some of the finest restaurants in France, and every year holds an International and Gastronomic Fair that stands as one of the most important in France and routinely draws over 200,000 visitors.
In addition to the wine, however, Burgundy is also one of the best cattle and dairy regions in all of France. One of the country's most renowned breeds of beef cattle, Charollais, grazes on the rich grass of Burgundy. The herds of these white cattle make a striking site against the deep green fields of the Burgundian countryside, contributing much to the bucolic setting. The same lands that produce such outstanding beef cattle also produce good dairy cattle, and good cheese to go with it. Cow's milk cheeses like Chaource and Époisses are Burgundian in origin. The grass also feeds the local goat herds, who in turn produce the various goat cheeses of the Morvan hills. Those Morvan hills are also well-known locally for a delicious parsley-cured ham.
One of the best ways to take in the splendor of Burgundy and sample all its many flavors is along its canal. This pre-industrial waterway winds its way across over 200 kilometers, going from the northwestern corner of Burgundy down through the middle of the country to reach the east-central border of the modern province. The route passes by many towns and small villages along the way, in addition to the city of Dijon. Trips by canal can be made either by renting a private houseboat-barge, a smaller boat and spending the night in the inns and hotels of the towns along the way, or by getting a cabin on a bed and breakfast barge and joining other travellers seeing the sights.
Another way to take in Burgundy is on foot. The Morvan hills are protected by their own national park, and are crisscrossed by hiking trails. The national walking paths of the GR 2, 3, 7 and 13 all pass through Burgundy, granting long-distance hikers the ability to either include Burgundy as part of their route across France or to make their way into all parts of the region on these separate, well-marked routes.
Burgundy is one of the better-kept secretes of France. It is not home to the things that draw most visitors to France, such as the bright lights of Paris, the sun and style of the Riviera or the skiing slopes of the French Alps. Yet lovers of fine wine, good food and rustic country getaways are familiar with the virtues of Burgundy, and these virtues have drawn hundreds of thousands of visitors to the region every year. Well-equipped for travellers, yet just a bit off the beaten track, Burgundy is a marvelous place to get away from it all and enjoy the finer things in life. |
