Normandy

The French region of Normandy is famous mostly as the setting of the Allied invasion of occupied Europe in 1944, and there are many Second World War sites and monuments there today. As important as those are, however, the Second World War is hardly the only historical attraction of the area. William the Conqueror was the Duke of Normandy before he added the English crown to his titles, after all, and Normandy figured prominently in much of the medieval relations between England and France, including the tumult of the Hundred Year's War. Finally, Normandy itself is a rich country of rolling hills, with old farms and hedgerow-divided fields. Its beaches were an attraction to tourists long before they became the highway for American, British, and Canadian soldiers seeking the overthrow of Hitler's Germany.

On June 6th, 1944, Allied forces came ashore at five beaches covering over 50 miles of territory, while airborne forces were dropped into areas along the flanks of that coastal area. The result is that this part of modern Normandy is reminiscent of an American Civil War battlefield park: one cannot go anywhere without encountering a plaque, monument, or museum of some kind. The beaches themselves are perhaps the most impressive sites, as the numerous steel-reinforced concrete fortifications created by the Germans are still standing. Military history buffs should consider renting a bicycle and spending 3 to 5 days exploring the area in detail. The casual visitor should spend a full day here, starting at the Musée du Débarquement (The Landing Museum) in Arromanches, then proceeding to Omaha beach, which is overlooked by the American cemetary, and then finishing the day at one or more of the other beach sites: Gold, Sword, Juno, or Utah.

Normandy is also rich in the history of the Middle Ages. The most famous visual chronicle of those times, the Bayeux Tapestry, was made in that Norman town. The tapestry is still in Bayeux today, and is on display there. It portrays the events of the 1066 invasion of England by William the Conqueror, and stands as a magnificent example of early medieval artwork.

The town of Les Andelys is home to the Château Gaillard, a fortress designed and built by Richard the Lionheart. Caen, which figured prominently in D-Day as well, has an intimidating castle that served as the base for William the Conqueror. Then there is Mont Saint Michel, a fortified abbey perched on a rocky island, connected to the Norman mainland by a narrow causeway. The construction of the complex spans the period from the 11th to the 16th Centuries, and it stands as an outstanding example of medieval religious architecture.

Past the imposing history of Normandy, it is a place endowed with a rich, green countryside and plenty of quaint, charming towns. Honfleur is a picturesque little fishing village. Painter Eugene Boudin (who helped launch the Impressionist movement) and composer Erik Satie were both born in Honfleur. Strolling the streets, with oddities like the all-wood, cog-like Sainte-Catherine church (built in 1500), or the lovely harbour area, one can only wonder what influence the place must have had on these two men.

Outdoor lovers will find that Normandy is one of the best places in France to do some hiking or biking. A good way to explore Normandy is to set out on foot or on a bike, and travel from town to town, taking in much of the hedgerow-framed countryside along the way. For example, along the coast there is a footpath that connects Honfleur to the Avranches and then Mont Saint Michel, enabling a hiker to take in a broad swathe of Normandy's coastal history and scenery in one go, and without having to carry any camping gear. There are also four Natural Parks in Normandy, protecting a number of forests and wetlands.

Finally, there are Normandy's beaches which provide some lovely places to spend an afternoon enjoying the sand and surf. Of course, no one goes to France without expecting to enjoy the food. Norman cuisine is based around seafood and the twin bounties of the inland farms: dairy products and apples. Four of the world's best-known cheeses are Norman in origin: Neufchâtel, Pont-L'Evêque, Livarot, and Camembert. Shellfish, especially oysters and lobster, are a staple of many a coastal town's menus, Cancale being one such coastal town just west of Mont St Michel. There are also a handful of sausages that are characteristic of the region, as well as saltmarsh-raised lamb. The apples, while tasty in their own right, are used to make cider and brandy.

Normandy is one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of France, and it is not hard to see why. However, unlike Paris or the Riveria, Normandy is a big place. Only during the high season and at the biggest tourist magnets does it feel like there are a throng of visitors about. Combining a long history with lovely scenery and a rich provincial culture, Normandy is a worthy holiday destination.